Climbing
Alpamayo
- Duration: 06 days / 05 nigths
- Altitud: 5,947 m / 19,511 ft
- Route: Climbing Nevado Alpamayo
- Availability: June - August
- Difficulty: Difficult
- People per Guide: 2
The Alpamayo Climb (5,947 m) is one of the most breathtaking mountaineering adventures in the Cordillera Blanca. Known as “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”, Alpamayo’s perfect pyramid shape and challenging ice walls make it a dream climb for mountaineers from around the globe.
This 6-day expedition offers a mix of adventure, technical climbing, and stunning Andean landscapes. The route begins in Huaraz, leading through picturesque valleys, turquoise lagoons, and glacier-carved terrain to reach Base Camp at 4,300 m and Moraine Camp at 4,900 m. The summit push via the Southwest Face (French Route) involves steep ice slopes (up to 70°), where climbers will test their skills under the guidance of experienced mountain guides.
Reaching the summit of Alpamayo is a true alpine achievement, rewarded with spectacular views of neighboring peaks such as Quitaraju, Artesonraju, and Santa Cruz. This climb is ideal for experienced mountaineers looking for a technical but rewarding expedition in one of the most majestic mountain ranges on Earth.
TIPS:
- Participants must be well acclimatized and have prior experience in hiking and mountaineering.
- The load is shared: everyone carries or porters their own personal equipment up to Alpamayo Base and Intermediate Camps.
- The included cook–porter only provides support with meals and camp setup (tents and kitchen equipment).
Itinerary
Day 1: Huaraz (3090m) – Cashapampa (2900m) – Llamacorral (3760m).
We will pick you up at your hotel in Huaraz and travel by private transport from Huaraz to the village of Cashapampa (2900m), a journey of approximately 3 hours. Here, the muleteers and their donkeys will be waiting to transport the technical climbing and camping equipment through the Santa Cruz valley to the campsite known as Llamacorral, where we will set up camp for the first time.
Elevation gain: +860 m
Duration: 3 hours (car), 4-5 hours approx. (hiking).
Day 2: Llamacorral - Jatuncocha Lagoon – Arhuaycocha Gorge – Alpamayo Base Camp (4600m).
From Llamacorral Camp, we'll head towards Alpamayo Base Camp through the Santa Cruz ravine. We'll pass by Icchicocha and Jatuncocha lagoons until we reach the Arhuaycocha turnoff, where we'll ascend a zigzagging path to reach Alpamayo Base Camp for our second night of camping.
Elevation gain: +500 m
Duration: Approximately 5-6 hours
Day 3: Alpamayo base camp (4600m) – Morrena – Alpamayo high camp (5300m).
Today our porters will carry our technical climbing equipment, food, and camping gear. The route crosses the moraine with polished granite rocks, and after passing through it, we will enter the glacier. After skirting some crevasses, we will reach the base of the well-known col and begin a gradual climb to the final slopes (60º–65º). After overcoming these, we will descend a few meters to reach Camp 1 on Alpamayo (High Camp – 5300 m).
Elevation gain: +1050 m
Duration: 6–7 hours approx.
Day 4: Alpamayo High Camp (5300m) – Alpamayo Summit (5947m) – Base Camp.
Today, from High Camp, we will gradually descend to the base of the wall. We will then ascend to the lowest part of the bergschrund. From there, we will traverse a steep, uniform slope of approximately 55°–60°, reaching an even steeper section of 85°–90°. Continuing along the original couloir (65°–75°), we will encounter some short mixed sections before reaching the summit. After descending to Camp 1 and spending a few minutes there, we will return to Alpamayo Base Camp.
Elevation gain: +650 m
Duration: 10–12 hours (approx.)
Day 5: Alpamayo base camp (4600m) – Santa Cruz valley – Llamacorral (3760m)
Today our muleteer and his donkeys will transport our luggage across the Santa Cruz Valley to the Llamacorral campsite.
Elevation change: -500 m
Duration: 4-5 hours approx.
Day 6: Llamacorral (3760m) – Cashapampa (2900m) – Huaraz.
We depart from the Llamacorral campsite and descend to Cashapampa, where our transport will be waiting to take us to the city of Huaraz and our hotel.
Elevation change: -860 m
Duration: 3-4 hours (hiking) 3 hours (transport)
Includes/Excludes
- 2 porters
- 1 cook
- Kitchen tent
- Dining tent
- Tables and chairs
- 2 muleteers
- Pack animals (mules/donkeys)
- Bathroom tent
- Meals during the expedition: breakfast, snacks, tea time, dinner
- All kitchen equipment and utensils
- Transportation Huaraz – Cashapampa
- Transportation Cashapampa – Huaraz
- MSR stove
- Mountain guide
- Entrance fees to "Huascarán National Park"
What to bring (Personal equipment)
Warm fleece jacket
Waterproof or windproof jacket (hard shell)
Insulated thermal pants
Waterproof or quick-dry mountaineering pants
Gloves (preferably waterproof; consider a liner pair for summit push)
Warm hat with ear protection
Buff or light neck gaiter
Dark sunglasses with UV protection
Trekking poles (recommended for approach, descent, and glacier sections)
Mountaineering boots (double or insulated boots suitable for snow/ice)
Crampons compatible with your boots
Ice axe (for snow and ice slopes)
Climbing helmet
Harness, carabiners, and personal climbing safety gear
Headlamp with extra batteries
Sleeping bag (suitable for -20°C / -25°C)
Sleeping pad (insulated)
Personal first aid kit
Water bottles or hydration system
Snacks / energy bars
Lightweight personal toiletries
