Climbing
The Nevado Mateo Climb is a perfect one-day mountaineering adventure for travelers seeking their first high-Andean experience. Located in the stunning Cordillera Blanca, this accessible glacier climb offers incredible panoramic views of majestic peaks such as Huascarán, Chacraraju, and Contrahierbas.
Departing early from Huaraz, the journey begins with a scenic drive through the Llaca Valley, followed by a moderate hike across rocky terrain to the glacier base. Under the guidance of experienced mountain guides, participants use crampons, harnesses, and ice axes to safely reach the summit.
At the top, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking 360° views of snow-covered peaks and deep valleys, making every step worthwhile.
This climb is ideal for beginners, adventure enthusiasts, and photographers, offering a unique opportunity to reach over 5,000 meters in just one day without a multi-day expedition.
TIPS:
Ensure you are well-acclimatized before attempting the climb, as the summit reaches over 5,000 meters.
This is a one-day glacier climb, so carry only essential personal equipment to reduce weight.
Use crampons and ice axes properly; follow the guidance of the professional mountain guide at all times.
Start early in the morning to maximize daylight for the ascent and descent.
Bring snacks, water, and a headlamp, even though it’s a short climb, for energy and safety.
Ideal for beginners with some trekking experience seeking their first high-Andean summit.
Pick-up: 2:30 a.m. from hotels
Departure from Huaraz: 3:00 a.m.
Punta Olímpica arrival: 5:30 a.m.
Glacier start: 7:30 a.m.
Summit: 9:00 a.m.
Return to Punta Olímpica: 11:00 a.m.
End of tour in Huaraz: 3:00 p.m.
The expedition begins with hotel pick-up at 2:30 a.m., heading north from Huaraz. Upon reaching Carhuaz, we turn east via the Chacas route to Punta Olímpica, the starting point of the climb.
At 5:30 a.m., participants gear up and begin the ascent, navigating two rocky sections with rope support and safety measures.
At 7:30 a.m., we reach the glacier, put on crampons, rope up, and receive guidance from the mountain guide on using crampons and ice axes. We cross the glacier and reach the summit at 9:00 a.m..
After enjoying the summit, taking photos and videos, we descend back to Punta Olímpica, then return by vehicle to Huaraz, arriving around 3:00 p.m.
Warm fleece jacket
Waterproof jacket
Thermal pants
Quick-dry or waterproof pants
Gloves
Warm hat
Sunglasses with UV protection
Mountaineering boots
Crampons
Ice axe
Climbing helmet
Harness and basic climbing gear
Headlamp
Water bottle
Snacks / energy bars